Kanha National Park: Sarhi Zone Safari 

What does Kanha National park remind one of? Tigers? I’d already seen plenty of them at Bandhavgarh in the same trip before moving to Kanha. So, I was wondering if I’d get to see something else, something I had not clicked before, something that eluded me the previous day. Anyway, the guys from Pugdundee Safaris had promised that there is enough to see in Kanha.

Bandhavgarh to Kanha

Kanha National Park is genuinely remote. Even Bandhavgarh had a nearby railway station but the nearest major railway station and airport from Kanha are at Jabalpur and Gondia, both around 4 hrs away. Anyway, our drive was smooth and although at times we had to drive through smaller roads, they were in good shape. We stopped at a government tourist lodge for a break and to have our packed breakfast and eventually reached our destination by noon. 

Kanha Earth Lodge: One of the Finest Resorts in Kanha

The Kanha Earth Lodge turned out to be an aesthetically pleasing hideout on the periphery of the Kanha core zone. It is a thoughtfully crafted property that reflects the understated charm of a central Indian jungles. I got my own bungalow built using local stone and wood, with thatched roofs and mud-plastered walls echoing traditional aboriginal architecture. Also noteworthy were the interiors, tastefully minimalist, with handcrafted furniture, local textiles, and tribal art. We met the chef too for lunch, who had created an interesting lunch with local flavors (more about the food later). 

Evening Hike

We did not have any safari planned for the evening. So, we had a small hike and a sundowner was organized. There are some small hillocks on the peripheries of the property and one of the guides took us to one of the hilltops after a 15 minute hike. It had become somewhat cloudy and the sunset was not going to be as grand as we had expected but we were pleasantly surprised to see that tea and snacks had already been arranged for us even before we reached. The heat of Central India is usually fearsome but this was a nice windy day with light drizzle and eventually a hint of the sun also appeared through the skies.   

Sarhi Zone: Morning Safari 

We started at 4.30 in the morning, sacrificing the additional 30 mins of sleep, hoping to catch as much wildlife as possible. However, it turned out to be a really stormy day. It started raining as we started the drive and we had to stop and take out our rain gear. 

After some delay, we eventually reached the office from where we had to get our official guide after paying entry fees. Already a lot of tourists had gathered there and the whole process was delayed due to the rain, negating our early rise. Anyway, we finally got our guide assigned and started at around 5.45 am. 

The naturalist from the Lodge told us that we are going to Sarhi Zone, one of the smaller ranges at Kanha. Initially there were several jeeps around us but eventually they took different diversions and moved on towards other ranges and we were practically left alone. 

The rain had also subsided but it remained cloudy and much cooler than it usually is. The heat of Central India usually scares many but we realised soon that cool weather is not necessarily a great thing for wildlife spotters. Even the animals seem to be sleepy, enjoying this respite for extended naps.

Nevertheless, the car came to a screeching halt even as we entered through the gate. The guide pointed to the ground… We followed cluelessly and soon spotted a nightjar in broad daylight. They are active at night but sedentary during the day time. However, they camouflage well and it takes good guides to spot them. 

Anyway, we drove through a patch lined with Sal trees and eventually reached a vast open area where finally we could see some activity. It turned out to be some barasinghas. While it is a common sight in many Indian National Parks, I have never had a good image of it and the closest Barasingha I’d ever witnessed was a can of Barasingha Beer in Kathmandu. 

Anyway, finally I was there in front of a whole pack, including males with large antlers and females without the same. Interestingly, this iconic species of South Asia has already disappeared from Bangladesh and Pakistan and in many other places in India too. Even in Kanha it was nearing extinction in the 60s but a conservation program brought it back. 

There were a few Indian wild boars roaming around among the deer. Somehow I have always failed at clicking them too and this time also, my results were not very satisfactory. 

We stopped a few times as we heard the alarm calls of the langurs but they turned out to be false alarms and the animals resumed grazing soon. So, we gradually started focusing on the birds. We did see a lot of them although my zoom was not good enough for clicking many smaller birds. One bird that showed us the maximum patience was a junglefowl. I know it is just a lost cousin of the chickens at home but it’s far more colourful and was a delight to click the same. 

By that time it was already 10 AM and we reached the designated spot for our packed breakfast. A couple of muscular gaurs appeared nearby to drink water and we moved on after that. On our way back, we again saw the deer and boars along with a few other birds but the tiger was nowhere to be seen. Even the langurs who are supposed to alert others, seemed to gather for a siesta without any worry.

We were done and dusted and on our way out. However, the guide suddenly got excited and the vehicle stopped with a screeching sound. I struggled initially but finally I followed the directions of the guide and finally spotted a monitor lizard. Now, these are available all over India but I had never clicked one before. For those who like history and warfare, these are delightful creatures used by the Maratha army to scale enemy forts!

That night the chef had prepared a good dinner of Baiga cuisine. Baiga people are the original inhabitants of this region and many of the staff members here also belong to the same community.  cuisine, from the Baiga tribe of Central India, is characterized by its use of coarse grains like kodo millet, along with a variety of forest-sourced ingredients including wild fruits, vegetables, and mushrooms. 

We left in the morning for Jabalpur airport. It was mostly an eventless ride and we got there in 5 hours. Anyway, before winding up, let’s have a quick guide of Kanha. 

Kanha Travel Guide

How to Reach Kanha National Park?

Kanha National Park, located in the Mandla and Balaghat districts of Madhya Pradesh, is one of India’s premier wildlife destinations. Reaching the park is straightforward, with multiple options available depending on your starting point.

By Air

The nearest airports to Kanha National Park are:

Gondia Airport (GDB): Approximately 49 km from the park, offering the shortest road journey.

Jabalpur Airport (JLR): About 160 km away, with a road travel time of 3–4 hours. 

Raipur Airport (RPR): Located around 230 km from the park, requiring a 4–5 hour drive. 

Nagpur Airport (NAG): Approximately 260 km away, with a 5–6 hour road journey.

By Train

The closest railway stations to Kanha National Park are:

Gondia Junction (G): Approximately 145 km from the park, about a 3-hour drive. 

Jabalpur Junction (JBP): Around 160 km away, requiring a 4-hour drive. 

Both stations are well-connected to major cities like Delhi, Mumbai, and Kolkata. From the stations, taxis or buses can be hired to reach the park.

By Road

Kanha National Park is accessible by road from several nearby cities:

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Jabalpur: Approximately 160 km away, about a 4-hour drive.

Raipur: Around 230 km from the park, requiring a 4–5 hour drive. 

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Nagpur: Approximately 260 km away, with a 5–6 hour drive. 

Ease India Trip

The park is well-connected by national and state highways, making self-driving or hiring a taxi convenient options.

Park Entry Gates

Kanha National Park has two main entry gates:

Khatia Gate: Commonly used by visitors coming from Jabalpur.

Mukki Gate: Preferred by those arriving from Gondia or Raipur.

Where to Stay? Can you suggest a Resort at Kanha?

Kanha has several resorts for travellers. If I have to name one, obviously I’ll have to suggest Kanha Earth Lodge where I stayed. Apart from the amenities, I really appreciate the activity options they offer. 

What to Expect? 

While Tigers always dominate the conversation, keep your eyes open for 300 species of Birds, 43 species of Mammals, 26 species of Reptiles and more than 500 species of Insects. Also, do not forget the people of the jungle. Try to look for a slice of Baiga culture and cuisine.

Phone and Data Connectivity? 

I got good connectivity in and around my resort. While there was Wi-Fi inside, my Airtel connection worked outside. Even inside the National Park during safari, it worked intermittently.