PIL in Bombay High Court seeks to protect Kolhapuri chappals’ GI from ‘exploitation’

A Public Interest Litigation (PIL) has been filed in the Bombay High Court, seeking urgent judicial intervention to protect the Geographical Indication (GI) rights of the traditional Kolhapuri chappal from alleged cultural appropriation and commercial exploitation by international luxury brand Prada.

The petition, filed by six advocates from Mumbai and Pune, challenges Prada’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, showcased in Milan on June 22, where the fashion house presented “toe ring sandals” allegedly resembling the GI-registered Kolhapuri chappal — reportedly priced at over ₹1 lakh per pair. The petitioners contend that the design closely mirrors the iconic handcrafted footwear from Maharashtra and Karnataka, which has enjoyed GI protection since 2009.

The petition has been filed against the PRADA Group, Italy; Prada India Fashion Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai; Maharashtra’s Social Justice and Special Assistance Department; Leather Industries Development Corporation of Maharashtra Ltd; and Directorate of Industries.

According to the petition, Prada rebranded the traditional design under its European label without entering into any formal agreement with the registered proprietors or artisan communities. This, the petitioners argue, amounts to a violation of the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. They assert that such rebranding not only dilutes the distinctiveness of the GI but also unjustly enriches the foreign label while depriving traditional artisans of recognition and economic benefit.

“This act not only violates statutory GI protections but also deprives local artisans of recognition and livelihood,” the PIL stated.

On the role of government entities, the petition notes that despite GI registration, the concerned authorities in Maharashtra have failed to comply with a critical directive from the GI Registry. “In 2010, and again in 2018, the Registry explicitly instructed the formation of an Association of Producers – a mandatory collective body meant to represent and safeguard the interests of the artisan community. Yet, over 15 years later, no such association has been constituted,” the petition read.

The petition highlights that more than 10,000 families across Maharashtra are actively involved in the traditional making of Kolhapuri chappals, yet only 95 individuals are officially registered as Authorised Users under the GI framework. This disparity, it states, reveals how a large majority of legitimate artisans remain unrecognised and unprotected – deprived of the legal shield designed to uphold their rights.

“The government’s failure to act has left these artisans exposed to exploitation, unable to assert their ownership over the craft, and has directly contributed to incidents like Prada’s unauthorised use,” the petition noted. “Had the GI protections been robustly enforced and the community formally organised, such blatant cultural appropriation could have been prevented or swiftly challenged.”

Kolhapuri chappals, known for their intricate leatherwork and centuries-old craftsmanship, were officially granted GI status on May 4, 2009. Their registration was renewed in 2019 and remains valid until 2029. The PIL describes them as a “cultural symbol of Maharashtra” and an embodiment of living heritage, rooted in the traditions of artisan families across southern Maharashtra and northern Karnataka.

While Prada reportedly issued a private letter acknowledging its “inspiration from Indian artisans” following social media backlash, the petition characterises this as a “superficial attempt to deflect criticism.” It claims the brand neither issued a public apology nor offered compensation to affected artisan communities or the GI Registry.

The PIL seeks a court-monitored public apology, a restraining order against the unauthorised commercialisation of the Kolhapuri design, and a court-mandated collaboration between Prada and Indian artisan groups. It also calls for the long-overdue formation of enforcement mechanisms for GI protections at both State and national levels.

The petition warns that the Prada incident reflects a larger global trend of cultural misappropriation by luxury fashion brands, citing similar controversies involving Bandhani textiles, Banarasi silk, saree-inspired gowns, and traditional Indian motifs. “Left unchecked, such acts erode the identity and economic sustainability of artisan communities and reduce centuries-old traditions to passing fashion trends,” it states.

The matter is expected to come up for hearing later this month.