A truly high-quality suit is easy to recognize if you know where to look. From hand-stitched collars to premium Italian fabrics, each element tells a story of meticulous craftsmanship. Whether you’re investing in your first suit or looking to add a custom-made piece to your wardrobe, understanding the details behind a well-crafted suit can help you make an informed choice.
One of the most intricate features of a quality suit is the hand-set collar. This involves folding excess fabric back and hand-stitching it to create a smooth, thin finish. A well-made collar requires skilled hands to ensure it lies flat and seamlessly blends into the suit. This detail not only improves the look of the collar but also adds longevity by allowing adjustments to match your style over time.
A premium suit features a lapel with a natural roll—achieved through thousands of stitches and light padding. Instead of being pressed flat, the lapel is carefully stitched into place, giving it a dynamic, rounded roll. This subtle detail provides a polished look, with the lapel developing a natural shape that adapts to the wearer’s body over time, making it a standout feature of any quality jacket.
Known for its unique aesthetic, the barchetta pocket—Italian for “little boat”—has a slight curve resembling the shape of a boat. This pocket design is a hallmark of Italian tailoring, adding an elegant, traditional flair to the suit. Though functional, it’s primarily a design detail that enhances the sophistication of the jacket.
Pick stitching—also known as AMF stitching—adds a refined, sartorial touch to the edges of the jacket, including the lapels, pockets, and hems. This delicate stitching keeps the edges in place, prevents curling, and creates a sharp, polished outline. It’s a true mark of expert tailoring, ensuring the suit maintains its structure and looks sharp over time.
The Neapolitan seam is slightly angled backward, naturally following the shoulder’s curve for added comfort. This seam design obscures the stitching from the front and requires precise craftsmanship to match the front and back panels perfectly. It’s a feature that not only enhances comfort but also adds an understated elegance to the jacket.
6. Functional Buttonholes
Functional buttonholes, also called surgeon cuffs, allow the wearer to button or unbutton the jacket’s cuffs. Originating from 19th-century surgeon coats, this feature adds versatility and functionality to the suit. Unlike fixed decorative buttons, functional buttonholes reflect a high level of craftsmanship and offer more flexibility in styling.
7. The After-Dinner Split
An often overlooked but essential detail in quality trousers is the after-dinner split. This small slit at the back of the waistband provides a bit of stretch, offering extra comfort while sitting. It’s especially useful during long events or meals, allowing the trousers to move with you without compromising fit.
A premium suit often includes interior lining crafted from durable, luxurious materials like robust cotton. This lining reinforces high-wear areas such as the inside pocket and waistband, helping the suit maintain its shape and withstand frequent use. The reinforced lining provides a smooth finish and protects against wear, extending the life of the suit.
Top-quality suits are crafted from fine Italian fabrics sourced from prestigious mills, often found in Italy’s Biella region. This includes materials from renowned weavers like Vitale Barberis Canonico, offering blends of wool, silk, and cotton. Using premium fabrics ensures the suit drapes well, feels comfortable, and maintains a refined appearance.
10. Horsehair Canvas Construction
The horsehair canvas construction is a hidden layer within the suit jacket that makes a significant difference. Unlike cheaper fusing methods, a quality suit uses a canvas made from horsehair and cotton, allowing the jacket to mold naturally to the wearer’s body. This canvas adds structure, enhances durability, and ensures a tailored fit that evolves with time.
Final Thoughts on Quality Suit Craftsmanship
Craftsmanship lies at the heart of a quality suit, where each detail serves both form and function. Suits crafted with precision stitching, premium materials, and unique design elements offer an elevated experience, setting them apart from mass-produced alternatives. Investing in a well-crafted suit provides not only a polished look but also a piece that will stand the test of time.