Taipei – the capital city is probably the first city we think of at the mention of Taiwan but if you have been fascinated by the pictures of Sun Moon Lake, you got to make your way to Nantou county through Taichung. And once you are there, Taichung’s suburban charms and the seasonal rhymes of agricultural life will get to your eyes and soul. Comprising of 29 districts, located in the middle of the country, Taichung is also called as the “Middle City” of Taiwan. “Taichung city” lies in the Taichung Basin and sprawls along the main western coastal plain that stretches from northern Taiwan almost to the southern tip. Just an hour south of Taipei, Taichung is easily accessible with Taiwan High Speed Rail (THSR). One can opt for this 1 hour journey or a two-hour direct bus ride from Taoyuan International Airport, which is equally convenient. Many travellers keep Taipei for the latter part of their journey and head straight to Taichung from the airport. This is what I did too.
Why have I been recommending Taiwan as a holiday destination?
The curiosity around an unfamiliar landscape kept my eyes glued to the window. As the bus made its way to Taichung, a city known for its fascinating blend of modern and traditional, I buckled myself to take plunge in the freshness of the surroundings. Since it had been wet and windy for a few days, everything looked squeaky clean and green. As per my guide, Taichung boasts of a historic heart. While the region shares its roots with aboriginal settlements, the European settlements by the Dutch and Spaniards, the evolution of the Ming Dynasty and Ching Dynasty, Japanese colonization, and present day modernization have all played a special role in turning it into an important cultural and economic center of Taiwan. Taichung is very different from Taipei when it comes to the metropolitan outlook. The influences of the Japanese culture and architecture are evident as it became the military hub during Japanese colonization.
My first stop was the famous Rainbow Village. Just like its name, this one greeted me with a splash of colours and lively animated paintings. This old military settlement is not a village but a collection of eleven houses which were painted by a veteran soldier to save them from demolition. His act of perseverance and passion for its roots (real home) is celebrated by preserving the houses and the paintings. Travellers from around the world visit Rainbow village to see former soldier Huang Yong-Fu’s (also called Rainbow Grand Pa) joyful art works and click lots of pictures. Taichung has an artistic vibe and is popular for its artistic hotels, Totora bus stop and painted animation lane.
Some more of Taichung’s artistic spaces and public art can be enjoyed at the Taichung Theater and the Calligraphy Green. National Taichung Theatre, designed by a Japanese artist grabs eyeballs for its modern design, use of organic materials and eco-friendly facade. Taichung’s “Central Park” is the place where you will get to indulge in unique works of art, sculptures and fountains, interspaced with trees at every interval. From here, one may head to Taichung Second Market, which has been there since 1917. It is the perfect place to discover the local treats, interact with the friendly vendors and indulge in the authentic flavours of Taichung.
Unlike Taipei, one really doesn’t know what to expect in Taichung. The beauty and history of Taichung is free-spirited and scenic. Indulging in immersive tours, casual walks and local interactions are the best way to touch the heart and soul of different districts of Taichung. During my stay there, I also learned that Taichung is the birth place of ‘Giant’ brand -one of the largest manufacturers of bikes (established in 1972). For those are keen to know more, National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts (NTMOFA), the old and new Taichung train stations, Taichung Confucious Temple and Taichung Shiyakusho (City Hall) are worth a visit. Most of the places are within walking distance of the city center. For the nature lovers, hiking trails at the Dakeng Scenic Area, hardly 30 minutes from downtown, promise spectacular views and great pictures in Taichung. Don’t forget to buy some tea too.
For the music aficionados, especially jazz lovers, Taichung Jazz Festival is the annual event to look out for. For those who wish to spend more time in Taichung, they must explore the Lin Family Mansion and Garden, one of the most well-preserved traditional houses in Taiwan from the Qing Dynasty. And last but not least, do not miss the hunt for the original Taichung bubble tea as Taiwan is the motherland of bubble tea. Chun Shui Tang started in 1983 with the name of Yanghsien Tea Shop, claims to be inventor of the tea filled with bobas. For more unique experiences, make your way to Feng Chia Night Market. Not very far from Taichung, Xinshe Castle, and Gaomei Wetlands are also worth a visit.
Given Taichung’s central location, it is easy to do a day trip to Sun Moon Lake which is located in the neighboring Nantou county but I would not recommend that. A day trip does not do justice to the picturesque and joyous aura of the lake and its surroundings. Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Sun Moon Lake Line departs from Taichung and travels to the Sun Moon Lake area but keep an extra day for Wenwu Temple, Sun Moon Lake Ropeway, cherry blossoms (seasonal), and Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village.
As soon as you reach there, check in a hotel and then sign up for boat ride. No visit to Sun Moon Lake is complete without having a fun ride across the huge lake. Choose among the three points – Shuishe (where you’ll already be starting), Xuanguang and Ita Thao (Yidashao). After the first boat trip, one must walk to Xuanguang, and further to the Xuan Zang Temple for the incredible views overlooking the lake. Do notice the small markets and live activities taking place around the lake. To refuel myself, I visited Ita Thao a small, bustling lakeside town with a street market and filled myself with boba tea. The shoreline of the lake is also lined with wooden walkways, and cycling is a popular activity around there.
The ropeway is a thrilling experience which also promises great views of the lake. I would recommend spending a whole day in the theme park and enjoying various rides and tribal dances. Formosan Aboriginal Cultural Village gave me a memorable insight into the tribal culture of Taiwan.
While Sun Moon Lake takes the center-stage there, Nantou county, is renowned for its gorgeous and endless tea plantations. As far as the eye can see, there are stunning vistas, scenic bikeways, and lots of black tea plantations. The mountainous terrain in Nantou makes it ideal for the tea plants. I also saw the dragon fruit plantations next to the tea estates. Spending a few days in Nantou County is nothing less than romantic rendezvous with nature. And while you are there, explore the Bamboo Rock Garden, Tea Research and Extension Museum, Carp Lake (Puli township), Ci En Pagoda, Wuchang Temple and Nantou County Culture Park.
