Food trail of Rajshahi region of Bangladesh

Food trail of Rajshahi region of Bangladesh

Also see: Tour of Rasjhahi region, Bangladesh

The Rajshahi, Bogura, Naogaun, Joypurhat and Nawabganj districts of Bangladesh are adjoining to Malda and Murshidabad districts of West Bengal. These districts have a rich share of heritage and history.

The most well-known historical site of the region is the Somapura Mahavihara (locally known as Paharpur), a UNESCO Heritage Site. The region also consists of several other Buddhist Viharas along with a host of medieval-period mosques and temples with intricate terracotta ornamentation.

For a hands-on experience of Rajshahi Food join Immersive Trails for A backpackers’ Trail of Rajshahi Herutage (16 – 22 October 2024)

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But, no tour of Bangladesh is complete with its share of amazing food. Below is a list of items consumed during our 6-day & 5-night tour of the Rajshahi region.

Breakfast:

• Kichuri, Joypurhat
• Complimentary Breakfast, Parjatan Motel

Lunch:

• Mutton lunch, Paharpur
• Duck meat lunch, Sona Masjid Border

Evening snacks:

• Jhalmuri, Puthia
• Iftar platter with Haleem, Parjatan Motel

Dinner:

• Beef chap with luchi, Bogura
• Duck meat and begun bharta with kalai roti, Rajshahi
• Beef nihari with tandoori roti, Rajshahi

Evening snacks:

Note: This is not an exhaustive list but contains some of the unique meals consumed during the tour

Breakfast at Azad Hotel, Joypurhat:

Items: Kichuri with alu and dim bharta

Location: Azad Hotel, Joypurhat (Google map location)

Price (aprox): 120 Taka

The day in this part of Bangladesh normally starts with a plate full of kichuri. It is a whole some single pot filling economic meal meant for the working class. It is usually paired with alu and dim bharta (mashed boiled potato and egg). The kichuri has different variants and comes with atap and mota chal.

Today it is ideal for travelers who want to start the day with a heavy meal and is ideal for travelers who are planning for a late lunch or even skip lunch. People with big appetites can add an extra omelet and the entire course can be gulped-down with a cup of tea.

Breakfast at Parjatan Motel:

Items: Paratha, boot er dal (cholar dal) (not in photo) and mixed veg along with fried egg and tea

Location: All Parjatan Motels throughout Bangladesh

Price: Complimentary (comes free with rooms)

A kichuri at breakfast every day is no joke and needs a strong stomach to digest. For those wishing for a different taste and opt for a lighter breakfast can try the complimentary breakfast at Parjatan Motel, an initiative of Bangladesh Parjatan Corporation. These motels are located throughout the country and operate on a bed-and-breakfast model.

The breakfast comes free but it is not a buffet. The typical morning meal consists of paratha. Mixed veg and booter (cholar) dal along with a choice of egg (fried or omelet). Tea or coffee are also part of the platter.

Lunch at The Heritage Cafe, Paharpur:

Items: Rice, patla (liquid) dal, mixed veg, booter (cholar) dal with mutton liver, mutton bhuna with whole spice and cucumber salad

Location: The Heritage Cafe, Paharpur (Google map location)

Price (aprox): 350 Taka

Lunch is Bangladesh typically consists of dal and rice. The dal usually consists of the free flowing liquid, which is mixed with rice. Apart from that there is also the thick booter dal (known as cholar dal in West Bengal). The booter dal usually comes in non-veg version and has a dash of mutton liver or mashed fish head along with bones.

Apart from rice and two versions of dal a lunch in Bangladesh usually consists of a veg & non-veg item. The mixed veg consists of an assortment of seasonal vegetables. But, no meal in Bangladesh is complete with a non-veg item of fish and meat. The mutton bhuna in this region is cooked with whole spices and includes cardamom, cloves and even whole garlic.

But, the best part of The Heritage Café goes beyond food. It is located within the complex of a UNESCO Heritage Site of Sompur Mahavihar (locally called Paharpur). The towering stupa can be viewed from the café while enjoying your delicious lunch.

Lunch at Bismillah Hotel and Restaurant, Sona Masjid Border:

Items: Rice and duck meat

Location: Bismillah Hotel and Restaurant, Bangladesh side of Sona Masjid – Mahadipur Border (Google map location) (The place is so close to the border that Google map wrongly shows it in India)

Price (aprox): 120 Taka

A five-course meal (rice, two types of dal, veg and non-veg items) for lunch is an elaborate affair but lunch in Bangladesh can be simple too and can consist of rice and only one non-veg item. For travelers on the go a simple lunch like this saves money and time.

Throughout Bangladesh small eateries serve a simple meal of rice along with beef / mutton / chicken and duck meat. The Bismillah Hotel and Restaurant near the Sona Masjid – Mahadipur Border serves an excellent combination of rice and duck meat bhuna.

It is an ideal place for the last meal of Bangladesh and then walk across the border to India (Malda district) through the historic Kotwali Gate. A full tummy will definitely help in the negotiations of border crossing.

Dinner at Chunnu Chap and Kebab Ghar, Bogura:

Items: Beef Chap and luchi

Location: Chunnu Chap and Kebab Ghar, Bogura (Google map location)

Price (aprox): 160 Taka

The Chunnu Chap and Kebab Ghar in Bogura is an amazing place offering a unique combination of deep fried beef with luchi. The piece of beef is first hammered into a thin sheet and coated with a thick layer of batter. It is then deep fried and served with luchi and shredded onion.

Fried chicken (cooked in similar pattern) is also on the menu. The food is usually gulped down with cold soft drinks. Apart from the food the place is an experience in itself. During dinner time hungry souls stand outside the shop munching on the deep fried chaps.

Dinner at Chapai Kalai Hotel and Restaurant, Rajshahi:

Items: Kalai Ruti with begun bharta, morich bharta and duck meat bhuna

Location: Chapai Kalai Hotel and Restaurant, Rajshahi (Google map location)

Price (aprox): 200 Taka

Kalai Ruti is a special kind of bread made of black gram (mashkalai) and other flours. It is rich in carbohydrates and protein.

It is cheap, healthy and feeling. For centuries kalai ruti and begun bharta have been a food of the working class people of Rajshahi area.

Today it has been turned into an exotic fine dining item and is part of the menu in major restaurants of Rajshahi and beyond. Apart from the begun bharta, now it is also served with duck meat bhuna. Morich (morich is the term for chili in Bangladesh) bharta is also part of the platter.

Dinner at Dallas Hotel and Restaurant, Rajshahi:

Items: Beef Nihari and tandoori ruti

Location: Dallas Hotel and Restaurant, Rajshahi (Google map location)

Price (aprox): 200 Taka

Nihari will definitely ring an early morning bell for the Calcuttans. The delicacy is served in the wee morning hours of the chilly winter in Calcutta but it is different in Bangladesh.

Nihari is available round the clock and throughout the year in Bangladesh. The Nihari in Rajshahi is different than its Calcutta counterpart and is usually served with a chunk of bone loaded with marrow. The marrow is ejected out and mixed with the soupy gravy thus adding flavor to the hot soupy gravy.

Evening snacks at an unnamed shack, Puthia:

Item: Jhal Muri

Location: Puthia, Rajshahi (Google map location)

Price (aprox): 10 Taka per head

Muri has been a staple meal in both Bengals. No wonder, the humble jhal muri has made its way across the border.

The only difference is that the Bangladesh version is more elaborate and comes in with some unusual add-ons. This add-ons include mashed vegetable fitters like alur chop and peyaji. Some even prefer to add crumbled jelepies.

The Bangladeshi version is more spicier than its West Bengal counterpart and a large dash of mustard oil is added to provide a pungent flavor.

It is quite a filling meal and comes in large quantities. So instead of an evening snack, it can even double up as a light lunch.

Iftar at Parjatan Motel:

Items: Assortment of fruits, fitters, boiled chola, sarbat with add-ons like mutton halim

Location: All Parjatan Motels throughout Bangladesh

Price (aprox): 400 Taka

Traveling in a Muslim-majority country during Ramzan has its ups and downs. Many of the restaurants are closed during the day. Eating and drinking water in public places is best avoided but iftar feast is not to be missed. It is open to all people including those who are not fasting. Many of the hotels including the Parjatan Motels serve iftar platter, which comes with an assortment of veg fitters and seasonal fruits and dates. It also includes muri (puffed rice), boiled chana along with a sorbet of lime and sugar. Items like ghol and halim can be added at an extra cost. The mutton halim is a bit different from the Calcutta variety and is lighter and contains small pieces of tender mutton. It is garnished with golden brown fried onions, shredded ginger and coriander leaves.

Doi and kheer at Shanpa Doi Bhandar, Sherpur (near Bogura) :

Items: Sara doi (left) and khirsa

Location: Shanpa Doi Bhandar, Sherpur (near Bogura) (Google map location)

Price (aprox): Sara Doi 200 taka/kg and Khirsa 400 taka/kg

A Bengali meal is never complete without a sweet ending. No trip to Bangladesh is complete without sweets. The town of Bogura is known for its exotic curds and are available in two varieties, namely – Sara Doi and Khirsa. The word sara refers to a shallow earthen container on which the curd (doi) is made. It comes in with a hard brown coloured crust on top. Khirsa is also available in a sara and is not a curd but a thick sweetened kheer.

Although Bogura is said to be the origin of the two sweet items they are actually made at Sherpur a small town slightly south of Bogura. The highway on either side of Sherpur is lined with doi shops and there are several shops by the name of Shampa. The original Shampa shop owned by Gopal Chandra Ghosh is difficult to find and lies behind the rows of shops adjacent to the highway.

For a hands-on experience of Rajshahi Food join Immersive Trails for A backpackers’ Trail of Rajshahi Herutage (16 – 22 October 2024)

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For more blog posts of Rajshahi Region , click on the buttom below

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