Diamond Triangle and Beyond | Rangan Datta

Exploring Ratnagiri, Udaygiri, Lalitgiri, Langudi and more

Also see: Diamond Triangle Tour 2011

Around 80km north-east of Bhubaneswar and on the way to Paradeep lies a collection of three Buddhist sites of Udaygiri, Ratnagiri and Lalitgiri, popularly known as the Diamond Triangle. The site belongs to the Vajrayana sect of Buddhism, popularly known as the Diamond Vehicle, hence its name.

According to archaeological evidence, the monasteries were constructed in the 5th century CE and remained functional until the 13^th century CE. They peaked between the 7^th and 10^th centuries CE. The monasteries were most probably abandoned in the 16^th century CE and fell into ruins.

The sites were first identified in the late 19^th century and, after a series of digs, revealed huge structures consisting of large monasteries and giant stupas along with a host of artifacts. The digs have spanned over a century and continue to this day, revealing layers of history.

Ratnagiri (Google map location): Ratnagiri, the hill of the jewel, is located 15 km east of Udaygiri. Living up to its name the site is indeed a gem. It is located atop a hill and provides panoramic view of the surrounding. The strategic location of the monastery had protected it from invaders and provided seclusion to the monks. The site of Ratnagiri can be divided as follows.

1. Votive stupa enclosure
2. Monastery 1
3. Monastery 2
4. Maha stupa
5. Ongoing Archaeological dig
6. Site museum

Note: A detailed post on Ratnagiri is coming soon in my blog

Udaygiri (Google map location): Nestled between the two hills of Eastern Ghats, Udaygiri, the hill of the rising sun, is the most picturesque of the three sites of Diamond Triangle. It also happens to be the biggest and the least excavated sites among the three. The ruins are scattered over a large area and are divided into Udaygiri I and Udaygiri 2 sub-complexes. The sites of Udaygiri can be divided as follows:

1. Open-air exhibit
2. Stepwell
3. Triple shrine
4. Stupa and kitchen complex
5. Monastery 2
6. Maha stupa
7. Monastery 1

1 – 5 are in Udatgiri 1 and 6 & 7 are in Udaygiri 2

Note: A detailed post on Udaygiri is coming soon in my blog

Lalitgiri (Google map location): Lalitgiri is the easternmost of the three Diamond Triangle sites. Unlike its other counterpart, it lies on the right side of the road leading to Paradeep. Lalitgiri is the site where the sacred bone relics were unearthed. The site of Lalitgiri can be divided as follows:

1. Monastery 2
2. Monastery 1
3. Monastery 3
4. Monastery 4
5. Stupa complex
6. Maha stupa
7. Site museum

Note: A detailed post on Lalitgiri is coming soon in my blog

Beyond Diamond Triangle: There are several archaeological sites scattered beyond the Diamond Triangle. These sites confirm a flourishing Buddhist settlement that dates back beyond the days of Asokha.

Some of the archaeological sites near Diamond Triangle are:

1. Langudi
2. Tarapur
3. Kaima
4. Bajragiri
5. Gala Gali Sankha
6. Deuli

Langudi (Google map location): The famous Chinese traveller Xuanzang (Hiuen Tsang), who had travelled extensively in the present-day Diamond Triangle area in the 7th century CE, had mentioned about a flourishing Buddhist Vihar named Pushpagiri.

But discovery of an inscription from the decade long (1996 – 2006) excavation at Langudi confirmed that the ruins of Langudi were indeed part of the famous Pushpagiri Mahavihara.

Today, Langudi is the largest of the archaeological site beyond the Diamond Triangle. Today, the partially excavated site consists of a maha stupa, rock-cut stupa and rock-cut sculptures.

Note: A detailed post on Langudi is coming soon in my blog

Tarapur – Stupa (Google map location) & site museum (Google map location): Tarapur is another mearby Buddhist archaeological site. Tarapur has the distinction of housing a kesha stupa (containing the hair of Buddha).

It is believed that Tapassu and Bhallika, two disciple of Buddha carried hair relics to Odisha.

Today a renovated, or rather reconstructed, stupa stands on top of a mound in Tarapur.

Tarapur also has a small site museum. The one room museum displays several artifacts collected form Tarapur and nearby sites of Radhanagar, Kaima, etc.

Kaima – Elephant sculpture (Google map location) & Rock Inscription: Kaima is another important Buddhist site. It houses a stone sculpture of an elephant.

The sculpture dates back to 3^rd BCE and is presently housed inside a masonry structure with a grill gate in front.

The elephant sculpture is presently worshipped by locals and the statue is usually coated with a thick paste of vermilion and sometimes even wrapped in decorative cloth.

A flight of stairs next to the elephant sculpture shed leads to a similar masonry shed built over a rocky outcrop. Closer inspection will reveal a series of inscriptions on the rock.

Bajragiri – Site (Google map location) & School (Google map location): Bajragiri, literally means the hill of lightning, is another non-descript Buddhist site. Archaeological excavation has yielded several votive stupas and broken statues.

A few of the votive stupas are kept in a local school named Bajragiri Mahavidalaya. The votive stupas are lying in neglect in the school campus and are covered with vegetation.

The school authorities and teachers are ever helpful and welcome visitors to see the stupas. Nearby is an archaeological sites containing broken parts of various sculptures. They include a portion of a giant Buddha head.

Gala Gali Sankha – Sataranala Bridge (Google map location): In Odia, gala means ‘have you gone?’ and gali means ‘I am leaving’ and according to the legend the palace was Jagannath and Biraja (according to some believe Biraja is same as Jagannath’s sister Subhadra) bade each other good bye. Jagananth said ‘gala’ and Biraja replied ‘gali.’

Today, two stones at the edge of a playing field mark the spot where Jagannath and Biraja stood before saying goodbye. The word sankha stands for bridge and Gala Gali Sankha has a massive 17th century bridge. Known as Sataranala Bridge, it has 17 arches. An almost obliterate inscription on one the bridge pillar narrates the history of the bridge.

Deuli (Google map location): Unlike the other sites Deuli is located on the western side of the Kolkata – Bhubaneswar highway. The site stands on a mound overlooking the Brahmanki River.

Sadly, nothing much remains of the historic Buddhist site. The base of a stupa is all that can be seen to this day. A careful inspection will reveal a few ornamentation on the base of the stupa.

The strategic location of the place provides an amazing panoramic view of the surroundings. Odisha Tourism has plans to convert the historical place into a tourist spot,t complete with a watch tower and other necessary amenities.

Necessary Information:

• Stay: Chandikhol: Located on Kolkata – Bhubaneswar highway, it is the nearest place to stay. Only has a couple of bare basic hotels. Cutack and Bhubaneswar has better option but located further away
• Eat: There are several eateries and dhabas on on Kolkata – Bhubaneswar highway. Beyond Chandikhol there are no eateries. It is best to carry food and water.
• Travel tips: There is no public transport and a car is absolutely necessary for the tour. Visiting all the sites of Diamond Triangle and beyond will take a very long day. People with lesser time can opt for the three Diamond Triangle sites and Langudi.

Special Thanks:

• Prakash Nayak for hosting us
• Akhil for helping us locate the archaeological sites beyond Diamond Triangle