Bandhavgarh Safari: Crouching Tiger, Reclining Vishnu

It was dark already. We’d been driving from Jabalpur airport for more than 4 hours. The King’s Lodge Bandhavgarh, our resort, was half an hour away and I was already thinking about sleeping as early as possible to be fresh for the morning Safari. 

However, there seemed to be a commotion on the highway. Several vehicles had stopped at one point over a small bridge. I thought it was an accident but soon realised that my original goal of coming here was already getting fulfilled… Albeit a bit too prematurely.

One tigress was there along with several of her cubs, probably trying to move from one zone to another. It is not ideal for people to gather in such situations without trained forest guards. There was a risk of the tigers getting angry and attacking the people too. 

Our driver stopped the car slightly away from the crowd but asked us not to open the doors. After a few moments, I finally spotted them too! Unfortunately, my camera was in the dicky inside my rucksack and it was too far as well as too dark for the phone to capture anything. Anyway, I’d already seen what I’d come to see even before reaching my stay for the night. 

It was fascinating but it was bothersome for me. It takes luck to spot tigers even at the best of the safaris. Has my luck already peaked for this trip? 

At King’s Lodge Badhavgarh 

It was already pitch dark by the time we reached but it was a relief to finally reach my cottage and to get welcomed by the staff with some innovative dinner including a cocktail of mahua and gin. April is definitely the mahua flowering season in Central India and it was good to see that finally it is becoming a part of the regular menu of these properties. 

I was more fascinated by the history of the place. It was not a mere jungle but a land where both recorded history and untraceable myths converge. We were soon informed that the King’s Lodge is not just a fancy name and this property literally belonged to a king and then it was developed into a resort. 

There are several origin stories about Badhavgarh, the most famous one is related to the times of Ramayan and Bandhav basically refers to the brother of Lord Ram i.e Laxman. Apart from wildlife, Bandhavgarh also boasts of some interesting archaeological entities (more about them later). 

Bandhavgarh Tiger Safari: Tala Zone 

Bandhavgarh has several zones and our safari was organized for the Tala Zone. As it was an action-packed day, let me provide a blow by blow account.   

4.45 AM 

I managed to wake up against the wishes of my bones but the staff at the resort were up already and had prepared some tea and refreshments. We quickly left around 5 AM towards the Tala Zone.

6.30 AM

After a while we stopped along with several other cars. Apparently one of the guides heard a call but nothing really appeared. After 5 minutes we were planning to leave but someone shouted that there’s an eagle and I finally located one above us. It was a created serpent eagle that was watching over us as we were looking for the tiger. 

We moved on and crossed a marshy area where there were several waterbirds but the only one I captured was a lesser adjutant stork 

7.30 AM 

Is that the one? Yes it is!

Another tiger but it is too far away. It took me ages to locate it following the instructions of the guides. I did click it… but it wasn’t a satisfactory shot.

How many more chances will I get?

8 AM 

I noticed a bunch of Grey Hornbills from the movie jeep. I missed a few great frames where several of them were together. 8 have seen Hornbills at various places but have never managed a good photograph. I was getting increasingly frustrated but finally one of them sat on a flowering branch and the jeep was at the right point with the light falling on in the right direction. I finally clicked my first clean hornbill pic!

8.30 AM 

Several groups of langurs could be seen all over the jungle. Their behaviour generally indicates the proximity of the big cats. Considering how relaxed they were, my hopes were beginning to dwindle and I consoled myself by clicking a couple of Ibises. 

9 AM 

We crisscrossed the whole Tala Zone several times, gradually losing hope. However, finally some tip came from another vehicle and everyone rushed to one particular point. Several vehicles stopped there, with a thickly forested upward slope on one side and a somewhat open area on the other. The guides pointed towards something and my usual struggle began. 

Thankfully, the tiger was in no hurry. It was resting on a rock, somewhat higher up from the road. After some anxious moments I spotted it too. It was the closest I’d ever been to a tiger. It was not the best but I finally clicked my first non-embarrassing tiger portrait after years of failed attempts! 

The famous tigers in national parks have names. However, we were told that this is an adolescent tiger and it is yet to make a name for itself. Soon, we realised that there were not one but two adolescent tiger there. The other one also came close and eventually both of them decided to leave and disappear into the thicker woods before I could click them together.

9.30 AM 

I felt relaxed and carefree after clicking the tiger. The carefreeness turned into carelessness as usual and I missed several good shots before finally clicking an India roller and some spotter deer. We also noticed some gigantic beehives reminiscent of Jungle Book. Kipling was indeed inspired by Central Indian jungles.

10 AM 

We had our packed breakfast and prepared for the last part of the safari. The topography of Bandhavgarh is delightful with a large table mountain dominating the landscape. As we were driving along the hill on our right side, we spotted a wake of vultures feasting on a carcass. 

Now, vultures used to be a common sight till the 90s. However, anyone who is remotely interested in environmental affairs must be aware of the dwindling number of vultures and the impact of pesticides on them. That is why, it was a great sight and it got better and better. Some of the griffons flew closer and eventually sat on a naked tree just above our vehicle!

10.45 AM 

Eventually the vehicle started driving up a hilly road. Although it is a National Park now, the medieval kings did not only use it as a hunting ground but constructed temples and other buildings for day to day affairs. The guides pointed out to some dilapidated structures that were used as stables at one point of time.

Eventually, we reached the iconic reclining Vishnu statue. This is actually a very popular motif in the ancient Hindu temples. This is not my first one. I could think of the Vishnu in Sheshshayya in Udayagiri Caves in MP itself as well as the Budha Nilakantha in faraway Kathmandu among the ones I have seen. This depicts Lord Vishnu sleeping on the coils of the serpent Shesha.

Anyway, this one was also pretty elaborate, lying on the bank of a small tank. However, one must not think that it is a standalone structure. The ancient rulers had built an array of structures. Apparently there are dashavatara statues atop the hill (we were somewhere at the midpoint). 

However, this area is protected now and the Fort at the hilltop is opened up for visitors only on two occasions every year, Krishna Janmashtami (August) and Kabir Jayanti (December).

11:00 AM 

We were returning after a day that can be termed successful in all aspects. I couldn’t ask for anything more but this particular day was more generous than any other day of my life!

Soon, a golden jackal arrived out of the blue. Even as the vehicle slowed down, it led us ahead for a while like a shepherd dog, and then stopped and posed for a long minute before going away!

Just after the jackal, we also spotted a big Sambhar deer. It’s a common sight in jungles but it was very near, grazing by the side of the trail. We were told that they usually become indecisive when someone suddenly arrives, and fails to run away quickly! Good for us, better for the tiger, unfortunately not so good for the deer himself!

So, the first safari ended here. There was something more waiting for the next day but it will be described in the next post. 

Bandhavgarh Travel Guide

How to Reach Bandhavgarh National Park?

Kanha National Park, located in the Mandla and Balaghat districts of Madhya Pradesh, is one of India’s premier wildlife destinations. Reaching the park is straightforward, with multiple options available depending on your starting point.

 By Air (Nearest Airports)

• Jabalpur Airport (JLR) – Approx. 160 km
  
  • The most convenient airport for Bandhavgarh.
  • Regular flights from major cities like Delhi, Mumbai, and Hyderabad.
  • Travel time to the park by road: 4–5 hours.
• Khajuraho Airport (HJR) – Approx. 225 km
  
  • Good option if combining with a Khajuraho visit.
  • Limited flight connectivity compared to Jabalpur.
  • Travel time by road: 5–6 hours.
• Umaria Airstrip – For charter/private flights only (approx. 35 km from Tala Gate).

By Train (Nearest Railway Stations)

• Umaria Railway Station (UMR) – Approx. 35 km
  
  • Closest railhead, well connected to Jabalpur, Katni, and Delhi.
  • Preferred for those looking to enter through Tala Zone (main safari zone).
• Katni Railway Station (KTE) – Approx. 100 km
  
  • Major junction with better train connectivity.
  • Regular trains from Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, and Varanasi.
• Jabalpur Railway Station (JBP) – Approx. 165 km
  
  • Bigger station with wider train network.
  • Option if you’re flying into Jabalpur and taking a train onward.

By Road (Highways and Connectivity)

• From Jabalpur: ~165 km, 4–5 hours
  • Well-maintained route via Shahpura and Umaria.
  • Private taxis and shared vehicles available.
• From Katni: ~100 km, 2.5–3 hours
  • Scenic route with decent roads; taxis are easily available.
• From Khajuraho: ~225 km, 5–6 hours
  • Less preferred due to longer drive and patchy roads in some stretches.
• Bus Services:
  
  • Limited direct buses; local buses ply between Umaria and Tala village.
  • Private transfers or cabs are more reliable for reaching the park.

Resort in Bandhavgarh?

Bandhavgarh has several resorts for travellers. I stayed at King’s Lodge, which is an excellent property with a lot of history associated with it.

What to Expect? 

While Tigers always dominate the conversation, keep your eyes open for 300 species of Birds, 43 species of Mammals, 26 species of Reptiles and more than 500 species of Insects. 

Phone and Data Connectivity? 

I got good connectivity in and around my resort. While there was Wi-Fi inside, my Airtel connection worked outside. Even inside the National Park during safari, it worked occasionally.